Sunday, May 3, 2009

how to use a toilet

Back in Delhi. Today I'm packing and learning how to make the world's best butter chicken from my cousin's chef. Tomorrow night I head off to Uttar Pradesh for my 5 week NOLS course in the Himalayas.

For my fight back to Delhi, I arrived in Bangalore Airport three hours early and the IndiGo check in counter wasn't even open yet.

Bangalore Intl Airport is on par with Munich Intl Airport in the sleek and grandiose departments. 200 foot tall support beams curve and twirl towards the sky to support a bulbous glass and steel ceiling. The elevator near the checkout counter is made of glass, exposing the high tech, silver-hued, tangled mechanical innards that propel the human delivery box up and down. Bangalore has money and an army of eager and over-educated computer programmers who bring home the bacon and crush any doubt that India is rising. I know this because I've been to the Airport.

One thing that Bangalore Intl Airport has that Munich doesn't, however, is villagers. Villagers who don't trust plexiglas human delivery boxes or stairs that climb for you. As I, headphones in and foot popping, waited for the IndiGo counter to open, I noticed two of such aforementioned villagers. One was a elderly man in a Yellow turban and white linen lungi. The other, I assume, was his wife, bright blue sari and white tribal arm bands to boot. They were staring at the escalator, too horrified to step on it and proceed to security. They exchanged a few words, something short, like, "You first," and then continued to stand there, gawking, for another 5 minutes.

An airport worker approached them. After a short conversation, he walked them 20 feet to the elevator and seemed to explain just how it worked. They considered this mode of transportation for a good 10 minutes. The airport worker enlisted the help of a friend to demonstrate just how this glass box worked. After another 5 minutes, the four of them walked away, presumably to a set of stairs in the back.


After checking in I decided to use the bathroom. I was nice, undeserving of the "India toilet frown" but still smelled vaguely like, well, an Indian toilet. After I locked myself in my stall, I discovered why. I began to do my buisness and then herd a hissing sound coming from the stall to the right. I assumed someone was using the bidet hose, but no. A woman, as confused by the toilet as the elderly couple had been with the escalator, had given up and decided to take a piss on the floor. Now, excuse me for being Ms. Ethnocentrism, but how hard is it to use a toilet? Are they really that difficult to figure out?

The stream of piss started making it towards my feet. I panicked, and ran out of the stall as soon as the proper hygienic protocols would let me. When the woman exited the stall, I saw that she was a young bride, probably on her way to make a new life with her husband somewhere where toilets didn't exist. I showed her how to use the sink.

On the shared taxi ride from Jayanagar to the Airport, I had some light conversation with the buisness man next to me. He said that India was like a drunk man crossing the street, it teeters and totters, goes backwards and almost gets you killed a few times before arriving at the other side, unscathed. No one understands how this is done, but it happens everyday in India.

This made total sense to me. Yes, sometimes it takes three days to get medicine for some nuns who are coughing up blood. Yes, you almost get killed every time you step onto the street. Yes, Hindus and Muslims aren't getting along like they should. And yes, you can't seem to comprehend the amount of people that can get squeezed into the bus/temple/garden/street/country. But somehow, magically, it all works out in the end. The transvestites dance, the children beg, the rickshaw drivers hustle, the cricketers play, the elite spend, the actors dance, the market teems.

I love it all, and I don't want to leave.

Sunday, April 26, 2009

so you know

i have a new post, that, for some reason, got published three posts under this one.

also: bomb ass bentos

country

western?

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

smoke meth and you too can discover the meaning of life!

Last October, when I asked my Nana what the meaning of life is, she answered, “To be successful.” (To all those who ever doubted my asianness- booyah!) Aside from the indisputable Chinese undertone, that’s a comically vague answer.

On my first train in transit to Kinnaur, I was assigned to a seat adjacent to an antediluvian man wearing a red beanie and white raincoat soiled around the collar and cuffs. I was less than enthusiastic as I took my seat but pleasantly surprised when he didn’t smell like urine. Two hours into my passage and after some sub-par train food, he turned to me and said in perfect English, “Ask me any question and I will give you a scientific answer.”

Now, some people I know have no problem talking philosophy with homeless people. I am not one of them. But, after some initial trepidation and apprehensive giggling, we managed to get the ball rolling. I figured I had another six hours of transit ahead of me and might as well entertain myself when the opportunity arose. Even if he was a complete bhang head, it would be better than sitting in silence or reading The Hindustan Times (seriously, the newspapers here are worse that my high school periodical).

He didn’t spit out the next cogito ergo sum, but he wasn’t a crazy homeless guy either (there’s a big range there). Just an 83 year old man on the way to a wedding, wanting to impart some Vedic wisdom on a little Korean (he insisted) girl.

He talked about how Barak Obama’s inauguration address correlated with the Maharbarta, how Barry was an Indian in a former life, how your roots are inescapable (“You can pull them out of the ground, but they are still there.”), and how the secret to health was living as natural a life as possible.

Finally, I gathered the cahones to ask the big one, “So… uh… what’s the meaning of life?”

“That’s a very good question.” He smiled his semi-toothed smile and grabbed a piece of paper from the facing seat pocket. “Is this not life?” Indian head wiggle. “Is a tree not life? A building? An animal? We are all life.”
Apparently, that was all he had to say on the matter.

“We are all life.”

I had my past life regression with Kumar on Friday. Yes, I did go into a “past life” and no, I won’t talk about it here. Let’s just say that the experience was freaky and I’m not sure that I believe that what happened was authentic or if I just want to believe my imagination. Regardless, it was a good experience.

One of the things he said as he was beginning the session was that noise is simply evidence of life. He said this as a passing comment, but I couldn’t help but brood over it during the following days. More brooding, I admit, than was spent my actual “past life” experience. Imagine that everything that beats or blows or rustles or drips is life. Drums and wind and leaves and the rain. In Ulysses, Stephen Dedalus asserts that God is “a shout in the street.” The music of movement, the fact that there is life, then, is God.

There is this Hindu legend/epic/parable whatever that tells (and I bludgeonly paraphrase) of a man who receives the opportunity to ask some god one question. His question is, “How can I be happy for the rest of my life?” The god answers, “Always remember that the divine one is eternally within you and around you.” God is in that annoying economics professor, the crippled beggar in Deveraj market, the mountains, the interent and our socks. But most profoundly, God is in us. Is this the meaning of life? I don’t know. But it’s a start.

Oh fuck, now I’m sounding all new-agey and shit. After you get of the net, remember these pretty pictures and not my banal ruminations.
we out and told victoria that it was my birthday. she got me a cake. this isn't my name...

Sunday, April 19, 2009

so little to do, so much time to do it

shit that won't (but needs to) get done:
1) Find a place to live after Wednesday
2) Get into Himalaya shape (I've been slacking)
3) turn in NOLS credit form
4) Blog about Kumar's
5) Finish Ulysses (...)

Saturday, April 18, 2009

ba-da-la-cou-peh

Went to the "Golden Temple" in the tibetan settlement, Badalacoupe (sp?), about two hours out of Mysore. Gokulam (our neighborhood) can feel suffocatingly Kapalua-ish. For those who don't call the aina home, Kapalua is the town in Maui where all the So-Cal expats buy timeshares or build mansions. There is a Ritz Carlton, Walmart, and the only Krispy Kreme in the state.


Like Kapalua, Gokulam is both beautiful and fabulously convenient. The concierge downstairs does the laundry; there is gelato, austrian pastries, and a dominos all within 8 minutes walk from the apartment; the Indian restaurants have western hygeine standards and appropriatly altered masala mixes so no one farts in class the morning after eating Hyderabadi curry; the rickshaws slightly overcharge and no one cares. Gokulam is a nice place. I just can't stand it sometimes.

As the car moved further and further out of the city, I welcomed both the break from the hanging neon sign flashing "yoga student" above my head and the ubiquitous use of the word "energy."
Called the nuns from Jampa Choling once I arrived. Someone had said that their brother is a monk at the Golden Temple and wanted me to find him. After walking into one of the five-ish pooja halls, and discovering a good 300-400 monks chanting in unison, I knew that that would be impossible. It also didn't help that there are only about 20 names that every monk/nun takes after entering monastic life. Sometimes they string them together so instead of Tenzin Lhamo or Tenzin Dolma, you have Lhamo Dolma. As I sat watching the pooja, I imagined myself screaming "Does anyone know a Janchub Dolma?" and having thirty nuns respond that they are Janchub Doma. One of the reasons I loved living at Jampa Choling Monastery so much was the refreashing humanity of the nuns there. They're the opposite of preachy hare krishnas or evangelical bible-belt christians. They're buddhist because they are Tibetan, not because they are "enlightened" and they are nuns because they didn't want to get married to a stranger when they were fifteen. They don't take themselves or their religion too seriously, unlike most devout westerners, and I think that that's how religion should be done. They love Budha because he said some cool shit and teaches love and tolerence, just like every other enlightened prophet out there. The monks at the golden temple seemed simular to the nuns at Jampa Choling.
note: extreme boredom during the three hour pooja (can you blame them?)

yes, that's a monk text messaging during the service next to his friend, who is picking his nose.
i love it.

...symbolism much?

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

question of the day

what if i learn that i was a crack whore who died of leporsy in my past life?
do i WANT to know that?

p.s. also mysteriously passed out in an Austrian cafe this afternoon. went home and slept for three hours and ate a Dominos pizza (the thin crust margareta extra cheese is delicioooous) and now feel bizzarely exhausted but relatively fine.

i miss these girlies like wow

obsessed: club love by 99 allins at 99allins.tumblr.com

also http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=33fqKjs-_E0

Monday, April 13, 2009

prada and past lives

shortly after concluding my third half assed workout of the day (i'm training for the himalayas), i squatted, wearing my sweaty walmart sports bra and old navy zebra panties, in front of the minifridge to assess its contents. dinner tonight composed of a melody of thrice ransacked leftovers; some green sauce that once contained vegetables of a yellow persuasion, a tablespoon of dahl, and a cup of biriyani (muslim fried rice) that i made a friend pack and give to me when he didn't finish it at lunch saturday afternoon (i'm turning into my cheap-ass grandma). the crowning majesty of the whole affair was some slightly overripe yogurt, eaten out of the plastic tub and sloshed with honey.

you know how some people feel like they are one age their entire life? the 50 year old kid syndrome? the "cool" mom who thinks she's her teenager's friend? they frat boy who never made it past 7th grade in the school of maturation?

yeah, well i'm doomed to be 35 for the rest of my life. not the sapient and settled prada-clad portent of modern success, but the frazzled and slightly overweight single who has changed professions four times, still struggles to make rent, and feels her biological clock ticking like a stack of distaff dynamite.

there is something intensely unholy inside of me.

there is this guy, "Kumar," who guides people through meditation and sometimes regress them into "past lives". Now, people have called me many things in my life, but one thing they have never been able to legitimately label me as is a hippie. yes, i do yoga, but i also relish ribeye steak and worship at the house of Marc Jacobs. i'm not really into all this new age shit, but i have an acquaintance (also a skeptic) who went on saturday and had more than a trippy time. she said that she was able to remember her past life and the number and names of her kids, that she died at 42 of throat cancer, and all these other fantastic details.

freaky.

i think i'll make an appointment for sometime this week. maybe i'll figure out why i feel like those thirty somethings who star in novels like Confessions of a Shopaholic. maybe i'll waste 1500 rupees.

here is something else unholy: a man in deveraj market who sells human hair.